CHAMONIX FRANCE
Ski & Snowboard Resort Review
Nestled high in the northern French Alps Chamonix is not only one of France’s top resorts but one of the World's best. Commonly referred to as the "World’s mountain sports capital" Chamonix is famous for extreme skiing and snowboarding terrain set amongst amazing scenery and an exciting, picturesque town.
Chamonix Ski and Snowboard Terrain
The skiing and snowboarding in the Chamonix Valley is divided across six main resorts each with its own specific feel and diverse terrain. The resorts are; Brevent, Flegere, Grands Montets/Argentiere, Les Houches and Le Tour.
Expect challenging breakneck powder filled terrain on some of Europe’s most spectacular slopes, cliff drops, endless hiking opportunities, narrow steep chutes, glacier skiing and snowboarding, huge moguls and long intermediate groomed linking runs, plus gentle sloping beginner areas.
Together the six resorts cover over 140 kilometres of groomed runs and are all connected by a free and efficient bus service. The lift system is efficient but on powder mornings the base queues can be enormous so try to get out really early.
The ski patrol in Chamonix does not discourage off piste skiing and snowboarding, they tend to have the attitude 'if you can get to it you can ski it’ however caution should always be taken when heading off piste anywhere. Off piste guides are readily available for hire at any of the resorts in the Chamonix Valley.
Brevent and Flegere Ski and Snowboard Terrain
The closest resorts to town, Brevent and Flegere are lift linked providing intermediate and advanced skiing and snowboarding on wide groomed runs and ungroomed powder filled terrain. The mountainous views of Mt Blanc and the Chamonix Valley are outstanding, on a sunny day you feel as though you are literally standing in a post card.
For some awesome off piste skiing and snowboarding head to the upper areas of Brevent for cliff drops and untouched open powder areas. Some hiking will be necessary but the reward of steep virgin powder snow is well worth it!
For a good morning warm up run take the long, fast and tree lined Les Nants run from Brevent 1800 all the way back down to the base gondola station.
Mogul lovers head to Flegere where some huge moguls can be found in the upper areas below the Index. Flegere is more open than at Brevent with rolling terrain and open powder fields. It gets full sun all day so after fresh powder be sure to arrive early before it starts to soften.
Grands Montes / Argentiere Ski and Snowboard Terrain
The largest inbounds skiing and snowboarding area in the Chamonix Valley is Grands Montets/Argentiere. The resort has the valley's most challenging inbounds terrain with steep long advanced runs, moguls, off piste powder terrain, hiking opportunities and intermediate well groomed pistes. On fresh powder days the crowds flock to Grands Montes/Argentiere so be sure to be up early for first tracks.
The exceptional Point de Vue run down the Argentiere Glacier is a particular highlight for advanced skiers and snowboarders. The Point de Vue run is accessed from the top cable car station; the top half is quite steep and fast then it starts to flatten out. Don't race down the glacier, take your time and look out for hidden crevices, it is a surreal experience and for those not up to the 22km long Vallee Blanche glacier run the Argentiere Glacier is an easier option! Guides are available to take you down but on a sunny day it could be negotiated in your own group quite safely.
Grands Montets/Argentiere also offers a boardercross course and terrain park.
Les Houches Ski and Snowboard Terrain
Les Houches located at the far west end of the Chamonix Valley is a small sheltered resort with challenging and extensive skiing and snowboarding on groomed trails of varying descents best suited for confident beginners and intermediates.
As most of the trails are below the tree line at Les Houches in blizzard conditions when the other resorts have poor visibility the long winding runs through the pine forests are great fun.
The French National Ski Team frequently trains on the internationally acclaimed men’s World Cup downhill run La Verte-Kandahar, it is the only black run at Les Houches.
A day pass must be purchased to ski or snowboard at les Houches as the Chamonix Le Pass is not valid for use at Les Houches.
Le Tour Ski and Snowboard Terrain
Confident beginners and intermediates love Le Tour with its wide open free rolling gentle terrain littered with natural gullies and halfpipes. In fresh snow the gentle off piste opportunities are great fun and perfect for learning and improving deep powder turns.
Skiing and Snowboarding The Vallee Blanche Chamonix
The 22 kilometre Vallee Blanche run is Chamonix's most famous terrain.
From the top of the Aiguille Du Midi Cable Car, the Plan de l’Aiguille located at 3,842 meters, skiers and snowboarders can experience the thrilling 9,200 feet descent on ungroomed and unmarked powder fields down the Vallee Blanche over the Mer de Glace glacier.
The Vallee Blanche is not just for expert and advanced skiers and snowboarders, confident intermediates could enjoy the run with an experienced guide. A guide is highly recommended as they know the safest way down in ever changing conditions and through the glacier fields.
Beginner Skiing and Snowboarding at Chamonix
While the six resorts do have some beginner runs on the lower slopes first time skiers and snowboarders are better off learning on the specific uncrowded beginner only areas of Les Planards and Le Savoy both located on the edge of town within easy walking distance from the town centre.
Les Planards, located behind the train station, has four slopes, three beginners and one intermediate serviced by a chairlift and magic carpet. Group, private and all day lessons are available.
Le Savoy, located at the base of Brevent, is a very gentle gradient with two drag lifts and best suited to young children. Group, private and all day lessons are available.
The seven ski and snowboard schools at Chamonix offer bilingual lessons and packages for all ability levels and age groups.
Other Activities at Chamonix
Other activities available at Chamonix include cross country skiing, winter walks, snowshoeing, paragliding, hiking, swimming in the indoor pool, playing tennis or squash, ice skating, horse drawn sleigh rides, bowling and watching a movie in the cinema.
Be sure to catch the Aiguille du Midi cable car for a panoramic trip to the Plan de l’Aiguille located at 3,842 meters. It is the lookout point for Mt Blanc and the surrounding mountains, the view is unforgettably breathtaking. A café and souvenir shop is located within the complex.
The Mer de Glace rack railway train departing from Chamonix Station goes up 1,913 meters to Montenvers, the base of the Mer de Glace glacier. The glacier is the largest glacier in France, you can chose to explore inside it in a man made tunnel or just sip hot chocolate in the lookout restaurant and absorb the views.
Chamonix Shopping
All the top name skiing and snowboarding equipment and rental stores are found in Chamonix; Peak Performance, Helly Hansen Quiksilver, Intersport, Cristal Sports and The North Face are just a few.
The main street is lined with high fashion label boutiques, children’s boutiques, eyewear shops, beauty and makeup shops, souvenir and gift stores, homeware shops, photography galleries and art exhibitions.
There are also supermarkets, magasins de fromage (cheese stores), patisseries (bakeries), butchers, wine shops and delicatessens. A traditional food market selling meat cuts, vegetables and cheeses is held every Saturday morning from 8am until 12pm.
Chamonix Restaurants
There are more than 90 restaurants in Chamonix all serving delicious fare ranging from fine dining restaurants to family bistros, pub meals, cafes and takeaway outlets. Cuisine ranges from classic French food to Italian, Swedish, Chinese, Thai, Japanese, Irish and even Australian.
The Michelin rated Restaurant Atmosphere is sensational, the dining room is built over the river and at night all the tables are all candlelit. The restaurant has a set menu and an a la carte menu serving traditional French and local Savoyard dishes.
For a delicious Italian meal go to Casa Valerio they serve tasty pastas, steak, fish and vegetable dishes as well as award winning gourmet wood fired pizzas all complemented by an Italian and French wine list.
For a good pub meal go to The Jekyll for pan seared scallops followed by duck breast or grilled tuna steaks.
A fun family dining spot is La Caleche restaurant, it is an old but very cosy restaurant serving Savoyard bistro style meals, a must try is the fondue, raclette and fillet of beef.
Don’t go past the sweet delights in the bakeries and if you are a cheese lover go to L'Alpage des Aigilles in the main street; they have not only beautiful French cheeses but cheeses from all around Europe.
Takeaway snacks baguettes, toasted sandwiches and crepes are sold in the main street from little hole in the wall stores, they are open until late for those wanting midnight snacks.
All the resorts have on mountain dining restaurants most with large sundecks covered in deck chairs and tables. Life doesn’t get much better than when after a long morning skiing or snowboarding in fresh powder you get to sit in the sun munching on a warm baguette or enjoying a local French speciality sipping a cool drink and absorbing the magnificent views.
Chamonix Nightlife
The nightlife in Chamonix is vibrant; there are many pubs, intimate bars and nightclubs scattered throughout town all crowded with guests from across the globe.
The Chambre Neuf Brasserie is a fun and busy meeting place for après ski drinks while the Micro Brasserie De Chamonix brews five of its own beers and is open for tastings daily from 4pm onwards.
Bar Le Brevent is one of the most popular bars in Chamonix serving tasty bar snacks and drinks accompanied by the latest music in a welcoming atmosphere.
For a quiet relaxing drink go to the candlelit Clubhouse Bar, they serve the best cocktails in town and have a wide selection of wines, champagnes, scotch and Armagnac available by the glass.
Chamonix has two nightclubs; Le Tof and Le Garage open until 4am everyday with theme nights, international DJs and live music performances.
New for 2007/2008 at Chamonix
Speed riding is being introduced for the 2007/2008 winter season at Le Tour and Grands Montets. Speed riding consists of skiing down a very steep slope with a harness and a sail attached. Once you reach a certain speed you will be lifted in the air, the object is not so much to fly but to glide down the slope in control of your skis. The paragliding school at Grands Montets, 'Les Ailes du Mont-Blanc' will be providing lessons.
More About Chamonix
Your Chamonix Ski & Snowboard Resort Reviews
Rachel Lievens, Canada. February 2008 Chamonix has exceptional skiing terrain. Much of the most challenging terrain requires good mountaineering skills or the presence of a qualified mountain guide. The steeps are awesome. Even when weather is bad, there is good tree skiing to be had. The ski lift pass, although quite expensive 47 EURO, gives unlimited access to the whole Mont Blanc range - Italian side included. I skied with Peakpowder, and more specifically, Fred Bernard was my guide. I am a strong skier, but my legs have never felt so tired...it was a fun packed day with over 10 000 vertical metres of skiing. For those of you wanting to do some serious skiing, check this outfit out. As for restaurants, there is such a choice of international and French cuisine, the list is endless...but here are a few spots: Cremerie, hidden in the forest in Argentière, La Cabane, Maison Carrier, MOJO's, MBC
Caroline Pitt, Australia. March 2006 Chamonix is the best of the best, I would name it as number 1 in the world. When I was there I skied the Vallee Blanche and the glaciers at Grand Monte as well. The most exhilarating experience ever! Also whoever said the French have bad attitudes hasn't been to Chamonix, it's the Poms that piss the French off with their winging, the French love the Aussies! I would recommend anyone to go to Chamonix, you don't have to be an extreme skier there is plenty for beginners and intermediates. It's also one of the places that isn't just a ski resort, if you had a partner or friend who didn't ski they could do all sorts of other things, there's a gym, ice rink, walks to do all sorts of stuff. The shopping isn't bad too, there are heaps of shops, some really expensive ones as well as markets and CHEESE shops. The cheese is unbelievable, I tried every cheese ever made I think. The shop stunk, it smelt like old socks, but once you started tasting you couldn't stop! Restaurants vary from ultra expensive to pizza places and get really busy, if we liked the look of a menu we would book a couple of days in advance. We went to one called Restaurant Atmosphere for my Hubby's birthday, it cost an arm and a leg but by george it was worth it! I had a beef stew in a pot that was the best thing I have ever eaten. Hubby had pasta carbonara sprinkled with cheese and truffles, damn good!!! We stayed in an apartment in Chamonix South, we would have been about 5 minutes walk to the main street and a 2 minute walk to the bus stop to get to the ski areas. In summary, in case you did not get the picture, I just adore Chamonix and one day I want to go and live there.
Chris Symons, UK. Feb 2006 Le Brevent is where my day starts on some of the fast steep pistes then when I feel able I go hunting for the deeper snow areas. It's never that hard to find, at Chamonix you can go anywhere, as long as you don't die, the snow patrollers don't care! I like to have lunch on a sunny day at La Flegere for a bit of talent spotting then just cruise around the place. My advice for the apres skier is to start at the outside bar in the town center followed by 'The Pub' then head to 'Cantina' for the rest of the night. The downside to Chamonix is the buses are always packed, the drivers have no concept of over full, they just keep squeezing them in! That's why I walk to Brevent.
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49 |
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2 |
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1 |
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